Roy Bedichek started his 900-mile bike ride 115 years ago, yesterday. In that early morning after the Vernal Equinox, he looked across the open prairie at the clear pre-dawn sky and decided it was a good day for a bike ride. He set off at 4:45am. He notes in his brief (and unfinished) journal, "Sky cloudless except for bank in west & northwest. Sun[?] flared red awhile through a small rift in the bank and I discovered new, a very new moon. It occurred to me that it looked like the curled golden hair of some goddess. It soon sank into the cloud." With the science of weather forecasting in its infancy, Bedi did not have the luxury of "checking the weather" to learn about storms heading his way.
He didn't get far before rain forced him to stop. The gravel and dirt track adjacent to the railroad -- where he was bicycling -- quickly became muddy and difficult to navigate in rain. Forty miles from Eddy, he stopped in Bartlett and stayed in a "country motel" (according to Lillian Bedichek's "The Jumping Off Place"). Since Bedi often walked twenty miles from Eddy to Waco on a Saturday to visit Lillian -- I have no trouble believing he could bike forty miles in one day. So Bartlett was likely his first stop.
One-hundred fifteen years ago today, he was in the tiny cotton-country hamlet cooling his bicycling heels. What did he do for those four rainy days in an unfamiliar town? Was he discouraged? Did he take it in stride?
In his journal he refers to "a propitious starting," which indicates he felt optimistic, despite some bike chain trouble. I believe he was unbothered -- considering the rain as part of the adventure. He was feeling free and untethered as he headed to the territory of New Mexico to stake a claim and "prove up" 160 acres he could then call his own. He was perhaps remembering beautiful fields of blue bonnets he passed on his first day. I can easily imagine him sitting in the parlor of the hotel reading and writing.
Interestingly, in the journal he says he gave a pseudonym to the hotel clerk and was not forthcoming about where he was from. I'm curious about his desire for anonymity as he set forth on this ride.
Bartlett, Texas Today
As far as population goes, Bartlett hasn't changed much since 1909 -- still at about 1,800 residents. Though main street went from bustling to ghostly -- the frontier buildings appear to look much like they did in 1909. There is a new effort led by New Yorker Robert Zalkin to revitalize Bartlett through art and historical events.
Read more about Bartlett at the links below.
What happened to the 160 acres? Did he ever live there? Did he marry Lilian? Sherrell
What a journey — with little but a bicycle and a well stocked mind. I am glad you are recreating the trip.
You created a vivid picture of Bedi and his adventurous spirit! I am sure he wasn't bored during the four days in Bartlett, TX. Keep writing my dear . This is interesting! Liliana